Whether you’re weaving on a large-scale frame loom or need a sturdy, oversized stand for another craft, making your own easel is easier than you think. In this general guide to building a large DIY easel for frame looms, you’ll get a good sense of the tools and supplies you’ll need to make one at home. Basic woodworking knowledge is ideal – but don’t sweat the small stuff just yet. This post is a general guide that provides a visual of all the steps, from cutting wood to assembling the frame, so you can create a custom easel that fits your needs—as big as you need it to be.
By the end of this tutorial, you’ll have the tools and understanding on just how you can build your own large scale easel adapted to your specific needs.
(BTW: If you need help making a DIY frame loom, I’ve got you covered! See how to make your own here and here.)
Ready to dive in?
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SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED
5 wood elements:
● 4 long pieces of wood (2 for the vertical sides of the A-frame, 2 for the crossbars—top and bottom). For our project: we used parts of an old IKEA dresser (more on that later).
● 1 additional length of wood (for the back support), slightly shorter than the pieces being used for the vertical sides of the A-frame. For our project: we used a rough cut piece of leftover wood from previous projects.
Tools & other materials:
● Screw driver and several flat head wood screws
● Rope
● Wooden pegs (or cut up pieces of dowel). For our project: we cut a 3/4 inch dowel into 4 shorter pieces.
● Saws:
1) Compound Saw: Used for shorter wood cuts (this is the type we own but you may wish to use a miter box saw to keep things more affordable)
2) Table Saw: Used for long wood cuts.
● Basic drill (we personally like any from the cordless WORX line: this is the one we own) and drill bits
● Measuring tape
● Protractor/Angle Finder (angle measuring tool)
● Sandpaper or sander (optional)
● Scissors/Knife (for cutting rope)
● Lighter or match (for rope ends)
BUILDING A LARGE DIY EASEL FOR FRAME LOOMS
Step 1: Cut & Prep the Vertical Sides of the A-frame
To keep things economical, we used particle board from an old IKEA wardrobe that we cut into long strips.
Since the particle board was just 3/4 inch thick – not thick enough to create the stability needed for our A-frame – my husband cut 6 pieces using a table saw.
Below, you can see the first cut.
Repeat until you have all your strips cut. Each of our 6 strips were about 3/4 inches thick and measured 3 inches wide X approx. 77 inches long.
We then glued and clamped together 3 pieces to create one solid length of wood, and did the same for the remaining 3 pieces.
Make sure to wipe off the excess glue.
Follow the instructions on the wood glue product. We gave ours a full day to dry for maximum adhesion.
*OPTIONAL: Sand the sides of your A-frame, if needed.
Step 2: Cut and Prep the Crossbars of the A-frame
Cut your top crossbar to the width you want your easel to be at the top. Then cut your bottom crossbar to the width you want at the base.
For our project: we used particle board from the same IKEA wardrobe, cutting them down to the following:
– 4.5 inches wide X 18.5 inches long (top crossbar)
– 4.5 inches wide X 32 inches long (bottom crossbar)
Remember, this is a fully customizable A-frame. Make each piece as long or short as you like based on how angled your A-frame will be.
Step 3: Assemble the A-frame
Lay the two longest pieces down on the floor in an “A” shape (i.e., these are the pieces that have been glued together in Step 1). Make sure the bottom of the A-frame is pushed against a wall (pictured below). You can add the two cross bars to get a sense of placement, but don’t attach just yet.
IMPORTANT:
Using an angle finder, measure the angles of each side of your A-frame (along the bottom end that’s pushed against the wall), ensuring it is THE SAME ON BOTH SIDES.
We used this angle finder to measure the angles but there are similar ones like this one, this one and several others here.
***This step is critical to ensure that the base is LEVEL once it is assembled.
Once you have the angles of your A-frame set up, you can begin to attach the crossbars.
First, add wood glue where the crossbars meet the frame. Let it dry.
Once dry, pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting, then screw in the crossbars.
Secure the shorter cross bar along the top.
Then attach the second cross bar along the bottom.
Step 4: Add the Back Support Bar
Next flip the A-frame over so you can attach the back support bar. Add a piece of scrap wood underneath for support (as we did under the crossbar along the top). This will prevent damaging the surface below.
Our back support bar measured about 60 inches in length and 1.5 inches wide X 1.5 inches deep.
The back support bar will be attached to the back of the top cross bar with a folding hinge. This will allow the easel to lean back while still being stable.
Here is how to do that:
First, attach one side of the hinge directly into the back of the support bar using wood screws.
Fold the hinge so it is flush with the wood and set it on top of the cross bar where you want to attach it.
Flip the wood support bar up, letting the hinge lay flat on the cross bar.
Mark and drill pilot holes. Then attach to it to the crossbar. We used small bolts to secure the hinge. This is because they are more secure than screws on the thin particle board.
Step 5: Add Peg Holes for the Loom
For your A-frame to be able to hold up your large frame loom, you’ll want to add some pegs along the top.
First, drill two sets of holes (one higher, one lower) on each side of the A-frame using a wide drill bit, making sure to drill only as far as you will be inserting your peg. We drilled about a 1/2 inch into the wood.
You can insert each peg directly into the holes. Our pegs were made from cut up pieces of 3/4 inch dowel measuring 3 inches in length.
Optional: If you are concerned that your pegs will slide out, add wood glue to each hole before inserting them. (We did not add any glue and I’ve had no issues).
Having two peg heights will let you to choose how high or low your loom will sit.
Step 6: Secure the A-frame with Rope
To prevent the back support from extending too far, a rope attaching the front and back end will be necessary for a frame this size.
First, stand your easel up and drill a hole into the bottom crossbar.
Next, using scissors or a knife, cut a long length of rope and thread the rope through the hole.
*TIP: Cut your rope longer than you think you need – at least 10-15 inches longer – as it will shorten as you proceed to the next steps. Our final length of rope came to about 28-30 inches, but we had at least 40 inches to start.
Tie a knot on the end to secure it.
Repeat the process on the back support bar: drill a hole, thread the rope through and knot the end.
The knots at both ends will allow your easel to extend only as far as you need it.
*Pro Tip: Use a lighter or match to singe the rope ends to keep them from fraying.
Ready To Use
You now have a sturdy, large DIY easel ready to hold any oversized frame loom.
You can place your loom along the upper or lower pegs, vertically or horizontally, depending on your project.
If you already have a large frame loom and need something to support it (other than leaning it against a wall), then this is the perfect way to achieve that.
The pegs allow you to adjust the height for any large scale project.
If you’re ready to tackle larger weaving projects like wall tapestries or garments, this easel can help you streamline your weaving practice.
Final Thoughts:
This general guide to building a large DIY easel for frame looms is just a starting point. Don’t be afraid to make adjustments you need. Whether that’s the materials you choose (e.g., wood over particle board), scaling the design to make it smaller or larger, or adjusting the angles on the A-frame, your easel should work for you, so make it your own.
I hope this guide encourages you to try new things and to explore new ways to expand your weaving practice.
Check out these other related posts from the blog:
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